LOCKDOWN FOODPORN: HOME CURED SALT BEEF
“Of all the real benefits of lockdown, realising your most extreme food fantasies is right up there… I guess that if you live out in the styx (sic!)”
Of all the real benefits of lockdown, realising your most extreme food fantasies is right up there… I guess that if you live out in the styx (sic!) you don’t have the opportunity of slathering yourself in countless food parcels courtesy of the wonderful restaurants who have most readily adapted in the pandemic.
So instead of availing myself of a shedload of pre-prepared degustatory delights, I’ve had to do it myself. For a number of years, I have yearned to make salt beef. I was held back by not being able to get my hands on the curing mixture, and also a lack of general understanding of the procedures needed. So here goes!
First you need a wonderful butcher. I use the brilliant John Hutton of Earl Soham. John’s been ‘doing it’ for over 30 years. He and his wonderful team have really benefitted from lockdown. Apart from great meat, he has increased his vegetable turnover from £400 a week to…. £4,000 a week. Some going eh? If you are lucky enough to have an independent butcher within reach of home, do try them out. You’d be surprised what good value they provide. Try a properly aged chicken for example. For a tenner, you’ll get a 2.5kg chicken that really tastes otherworldly compared to the battery stuff masquerading as something different.
So, you need to ask your friendly butcher to bone out a nicely marbled bit of brisket. Size does matter so I reckon 2kgs is about right. Get yourself a large plastic zip lock resealable bag. You then have a choice. Dry cure of wet brine? For me, Salt Beef is all about dry cure. So, you can assemble your own cure, or buy a commercial mix. The benefit of the latter is that you can get a mix that contains Sodium Nitrite also know as saltpetre. This gives the brisket that gorgeous deep pink colour and intensifies the flavour. My chosen dry cure mix comes from Surfy’s www.homecuring.co.uk You only have to open the cure mix to be transported into sensual heaven! But best to keep your feet on the ground and grab your flat brisket and rub 70 grams per kilo of cure mix into the brisket. Use rubber gloves if you have delicate hands, and really massage the mix into the brisket for a good five minutes.
Then place the massaged brisket into the large ziplock reclosable bag and stuff it into the fridge. You must use a fridge to keep the brisket honest. Then really massage the brisket morning and night for a minimum of 5 days. I suggest for a 2kg flat boned brisket that 7 days is perfect! When the time is up, you need to carefully wipe all the mix off rinse clean and then pat the brisket dry. Get a very wide saucepan or a deep baking try and plonk the brisket in. A large non-reactive saucepan is best, because you need to cover the meat. Assemble a couple of carrots, onions 6 garlic cloves, juniper berries, bay leaves, black peppercorns, celery, leeks and anything else you think would work! Bung them all in and then add a mix od water and sherry/white wine. Imagine you’re wallowing in a bath. Would you prefer Champagne or water?? The better you put in the tastier you get out! Bring your pan to the boil, and then stick it in an oven at 150 celsius for 4 hours. You just want a gentle simmer.
My favourite partners for brisket would be Joel Robuchon’s pommes purée and steamed sweetheart cabbage. If you want to sound all ‘in the know’ it’s hispi to you dear! But the drop down dead gorgeous ingredient is fresh horseradish cream. You need to grow of buy a horseradish root. Grate the whole shebang and leave it for 15 minutes. In contact with air the hoseradish intensifies in heat. Then add white wine vinegar , mustard and salt with a hint of clear honey. Finally spoon in a good whallop of full fat crème fraiche and Bob’s your uncle. When the brisket’s ready remove it from the pan and leave it for 15 minutes. Then you’re ready to go. I have two suggestions for wine. If you fancy white, go and find an aged Mosel Kabinett or spätlese. If it’s red, you have a massive choice to bring out your big guns. We drank some Bandol Tempier 1996 which was sublime. Northern Rhone Syrah, aged Zinfandel, Barolo or Barbaresco, or Barbera. The list is limitless. Enjoy the brisket. It makes amazing sandwiches with the leftovers!
